Or you can contact us using the following information:
(021) 2001960 - Steenberg branch 22 Military Rd ( off main Rd above the railway line)
(021) 7055034 - Southfield Branch 118 Victoria Rd (at the bridge next to Werda butchery)
Tough clearing jobs always cost more money and that is why many client’s opt to tackle these tasks themselves instead of paying thousands of Rands to a professional.
- For cutting trees and logs up to 600mm in diameter.
- Robust saws for cutting through soft living wood only.
- NEVER to be used for cutting palm trees.
- NEVER to be used for taking out stumps or clearing roots or any hard woods.
- 18 inch and 28 inch saws available.
What not to do. video clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDqZZ7XKwV8&feature=youtu.be
- Supplied with chain, operating instructions and full safety kit. 18" version equipped with triple activated chain break safety feature.
- Chainsaws always become blunt after use. The time in which it takes to becomes blunt depends on the type of wood being cut and how dry the wood is. The drier the wood the faster the chain becomes blunt.The chainsaw willl be sharpened at no extra charge when the chain becomes blunt. This can only be done at one of our branches so the machine must be returned to us for sharpening. Sharpening takes approximately 15 minutes. Please don’t rant and rave about a chainsaw that does not want to cut because it is blunt. All our saws are sharp when they leave our shop, we have explained how and why this happens and what the solution is.Chainsaws always become blunt after use. The time in which it takes to becomes blunt depends on the type of wood being cut and how dry the wood is. The drier the wood the faster the chain becomes blunt .
- Not to be used to cut thick branches.
- Always cut from the top of the branch or else the branch will pinch the saw blade.
- Trained operators only may use these dangerous machines.
- The chainsaw is equipped with a chain break which is activated by depressing the lever in front of the top handle. This is a safety feature which aids in stopping the motion of the chain if it is engaged.
- Always use the correct supplied fuel.
- Clear away dirt, debris, small tree limbs and rocks from the saw’s chain path. Look for nails, spikes or other metal in the tree before cutting.
- .Shut off the saw or engage its chain brake when carrying the saw on rough or uneven terrain.
- Keep your hands on the saw’s handles, and maintain secure footing while operating the saw.
- Proper personal protective equipment must be worn when operating the saw, which includes hand, foot, leg, eye, face, hearing and head protection.Do not wear loose-fitting clothing.
- Be careful that the trunk or tree limbs will not bind aginst the saw.
- Watch for branches under tension, they may spring out when cut.Be cautious of saw kick-back. To avoid kick-back, do not saw with the tip. If equipped, keep tip guard in place.
- When cutting, stand on firm ground to the side of the saw furthest from the chain. Keep an escape route open, in case the tree unexpectedly shifts or rolls. Never stand on a log pile while cutting.
- When cutting a pile of wood, make sure the chain saw tip does not come in contact with any logs behind the one you are cutting. Such contact may cause the saw to “kickback”
- Despite safety features and protective clothing, injuries can still arise from chainsaw use, from the large forces involved in the work, from the fast-moving, sharp chain, or from the vibration and noise of the machinery.A common accident arises from kickback, when a chain tooth at the tip of the guide bar catches on wood without cutting through it. This throws the bar (with its moving chain) in an upward arc toward the operator, often causing serious injury or even death. Another dangerous situation occurs when heavy timber begins to fall or shift before a cut is complete – the chainsaw operator may be trapped or crushed. Similarly, timber falling in an unplanned direction may harm the operator or other workers, or an operator working at a height may fall or be injured by falling timber.The risks associated with chainsaw use mean that protective clothing and hearing protectors are normally worn while operating them, and many jurisdictions require that operators be certified or licensed to work with chainsaws. Injury can also result if the chain breaks during operation due to poor maintenance or attempting to cut inappropriate materials.
- Gasoline-powered chainsaws expose operators to harmful carbon monoxide (CO) gas, especially indoors or in partially enclosed outdoor areas.
- Place starting switch in “on” position, engage choke only if cold starting. Grip the front handle with your left hand and hold the saw down by putting your right foot in the rear handle. Place your right hand on the starter handle and pull out the starter cord slowly until the starter pawls engage. Then pull sharply.
- If choke is engaged, disengage the choke control immediately when the engine first ignites. The saw should start with the next sharp pull. When the engine starts, rapidly give full throttle. Release the trigger to return the saw to idle.
- CAUTION: Do not release the starter handle from fully pulled out position as this can cause damage to the saw.The chainsaw is equipped with a chain break which is activated by depressing the lever in front of the top handle. This is a safety feature which aids in stopping the motion of the chain if it is engagedPlease be sure to disengage the break before using the machine.
- Be sure to check with the landowner as to which trees may be cut and what stump heights are required. If you plan to cut on private property, especially in the city, check the local ordinances regarding the felling of trees.
- Read the instruction manual that came with your saw. Your manual describes how to mount the guide bar and chain, how to mix the fuel and lubricate the saw, and how to start it. Most chain saws are designed to operate the throttle with the right index finger; the left-handed person who tries to control the throttle with the left index finger will have a limited amount of the front handlebar to grasp comfortably and safely, and the chain will be running closer to the body. This is a more hazardous position for inexperienced operators.
- Some models have a hand guard that also operates a chain brake, a safety feature that promptly stops the chain from running when the mechanism is tripped. Learn how to shut off the saw instinctively without looking for the switch. You can ask the dealer about these points. Ask him to demonstrate the saw.Electric-powered chain saws are rarely used in the woods; they are practical around the home, where they are used to fell, buck, limb, and prune trees. Special safety tips for electric-powered chainsaws.
- A hard hat is recommended, and goggles will protect your eyes against flying splinters and chips. Because a power saw is noisy, you should wear hearing protectors. Leather gloves, hard-toe shoes, and timber chaps would help protect limbs that might come into contact with the chain. Do not wear slippery shoes or baggy clothing that could catch in the brush and cause you to fall; always watch your footing while working in the woods.
- Refueling :Taking the same precautions that you would with your gasoline-powered lawnmower, stop the engine and do not smoke when refueling your chain saw. Do not spill gas on a hot engine. Use a filtering funnel or a gas can with a flexible hose to fill the fuel tank. Do not start the saw where you refuel it, and be extra cautious of fire during dry weather.
- First Aid :Even if you do not need an assistant, someone should be with you in case of an accident. Have the telephone number and address of the nearest emergency unit, and always carry a first-aid kit when you work in the woods. If someone is cut, cover the wound with a clean cloth and press hard to stop the flow of blood. Get the injured person to a doctor or hospital immediately.
100.5 Decibels dB(A)
Vibration 2.7 m/s2
HOW TO FELL A TREE
- You can fell large trees with the small, lightweight saws that homeowners usually buy, but it is a risky job for inexperienced, nonprofessional workers and demands extra caution. First, remove any wire or nails that are in the wood you plan to cut. Determine where you want the tree to fall. Look at the top. Is it unbalanced with heavy limbs on one side? How much wind is blowing? What about other trees, buildings, or power lines in the area? If these hazards exist, perhaps you should hire an experienced worker to do the felling while you limit your work to limbing and bucking the down tree. Examine the top to see whether there are any "widow makers" (dead limbs or branches) that may fall while you are cutting the tree.
- Clear all brush, snow, and rocks from around the tree that might interfere with the use of the saw, or that might block your way to a safe retreat when the tree starts to fall.
- Assuming that the tree stands straight and has a balanced top, and that there is little or no wind, oil the chain, fully open the throttle, and undercut (notch) the tree on the side in the direction of fall (Figure 1). Cut the notch to a depth of about one-fourth to one-third the diameter of the tree.
- Stand beside the tree with your feet well braced and comfortably spread for good balance. Put in the "back cut" opposite the notch The back cut should be an inch or so higher than the bottom of the notch, square with the trunk, and parallel to the bottom of the notch. Then place the bumper spikes near the engine firmly against the trunk, and start cutting. Pivot the saw about the bumper spikes and into the trunk, using a fanlike motion and moderate pressure to feed the chain into the wood. It is not necessary to move the saw in a sawing motion: the powered chain provides the cutting action. Pivot the saw, then move the bumper spikes to a new location and continue feeding the chain into the cut. Draw the saw out of the cut slowly and with the chain running. If you must cut without the bumper spikes in contact with the tree, or if the saw does not have spikes, be careful that the saw does not jerk and throw you off balance when the chain contacts the bark or wood.
- On trees 16 inches or larger in diameter, you should make two extra side cuts to prevent splitting of the butt log.
- Do not cut through to the undercut; be sure to leave a hinge. As the saw approaches the notch, slow down and carefully control the rate of cut. You should have your wedges and maul handy because you may need to drive a wedge behind the saw to prevent pinching of the cutter bar. Wood or plastic wedges should be used if there is danger that the wedge tip may hit the chain. Wedges also may be needed to adjust the direction of fall by "swinging" the falling tree to one side or the other. Leave some "holding wood" (hinge) that is thicker at one side of the back cut than the other.
- If the tree is small enough (6 to 8 inches) that an assistant can push it, you will not need a wedge. Both persons must be alert, however, and plan to leave the area without stumbling over each other as the tree starts to fall.
- Caution: Always make a last-minute check to see that other persons are out of danger before completing the back cut. Yell "Timber!" when the tree starts to fall. Then stop the saw, quickly set it on the ground away from the stump, and retreat to your preselected place of safety behind a larger tree. Be alert to the possibility of kickbacks or bounces when the trunk hits the ground. Watch for failing limbs.
- Lodged Tree
- If the tree lodges in a nearby standing tree, its removal is a dangerous job. Proceed with extreme caution! First, consider the hazards involved. Has the lodged tree been cut free from the stump? If not, then free it with the saw or an axe. A pry pole, bar, cant hook, or peavey can be used to roll the tree off the stump and out of the standing tree. Sometimes the tree can be pulled free with a long cable or chain and a tractor. Be sure that no harm will come to the tractor driver or the equipment as the tree comes free. Be careful that the cable does not snap as it is pulled and hit the driver or a nearby workers.
- As a last resort, a third tree may be fallen across the lodged tree, or the tree supporting the lodged tree may be cut. The latter alternative is a very dangerous job that requires experience; you probably should get professional help.
- Do not work too close to your helpers.
- Do not hold the saw higher than your waistTrim the limbs from the fallen trunk while standing on the opposite side of the trunk. If the down tree is on a hillside, or if the trunk is likely to roll when some of the limbs are cut
- Stand on the uphill side.
- Start cutting the limbs from the down tree at the butt end and work towards the top. Limbs that are bent over and supporting the down tree should be Cut first on the under (compression) side, then on the top side.
- Otherwise they may split lengthwise as the tension is released and spring back to injure you. If you are cutting the tree into firewood1, start at the tips of the branches and move towards the trunk, cutting the limbs lengths of 16 to 18 inches. The branches will be flexible - be careful that they do not whip about as the chain comes into contact with them.
- When the branches have been removed, start bucking the trunk into firewood or logs. Be alert to the possibility that the saw may pinch and kick back to throw you off- balance. To help prevent pinching, start sawingpartway. through the trunk (or limb) from the bottom, then finish the cut from the top side, or use a wedge. See that you have a safe place to stand while bucking the trunk and limbs, particularly when they are likely to roll or shift position.
- Do not run the saw into the soil! It dulls the chain. Keeping your tools sharp and in good working order is part of your safety program.
- We recommend that you do not stand on a rickety ladder to prune a standing tree with any kind of saw. Pruning a standing tree from a ladder is very dangerous. Use a pole saw and stand on the ground to reach high branches. (If you must use a ladder, see that it is stable and well braced. Work without overreaching to the side. Use a hand saw for cutting smaller limbs, and use the other hand to maintain your balance on the ladder.) Hire an experienced worker to prune any larger limbs that may require a power saw.
- To prune low limbs of standing trees, stand on the opposite side of the trunk from the limb being pruned. Make the first cut with the power saw on the underside of the larger limbs about 6 inches away from the trunk, then complete the removal with a cut on the top side, starting a little farther out on the limb. This method will prevent stripping of the bark from the tree, which is especially important in the spring of the year when the bark cells are starting to grow. Finally, cut the stub close to the trunk. The smaller branches can be cut close to the trunk with one cut, starting from the bottom side.
- Follow steps in the instruction manual for operation and maintenance of your saw.
- Wear protective clothing; have a first-aid kit handy.
- Observe precautions in refueling and carrying the saw.
- Remove nails, wire, etc. from the trunk.
- Check the top of the tree for "widow makers."
- Determine where the tree will fall - be sure that no buildings, power lines, or other trees will be hit.
- Select a safe place to stand when the tree falls.
- Clear debris from around the tree.
- Notch the tree on the side in direction of fall, then make corner cuts and back cut.
- Yell timber
General guidelines on chainsaws:
- • Observe precautions in refueling and carrying the saw.
- • Remove nails, wire, etc. from the trunk.
- • Check the top of the tree for "widow makers."
- • Determine where the tree will fall - be sure that no buildings, power lines, or other trees will be hit.
- • Select a safe place to stand when the tree falls.
- • Clear debris from around the tree.
- • Notch the tree on the side in direction of fall, then make corner cuts and back cut.
- • Yell "Timber!" as the tree falls.